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	<title>Comments for TouchFactors</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.touchfactors.com/?feed=comments-rss2" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.touchfactors.com</link>
	<description>Human Factors of Multi-Touch Displays</description>
	<pubDate>Tue, 07 Sep 2010 10:45:24 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Comment on White LED Strips for Testing by fihyjyw</title>
		<link>http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=89#comment-15</link>
		<dc:creator>fihyjyw</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 25 Aug 2009 03:32:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=89#comment-15</guid>
		<description>&lt;strong&gt;fihyjyw...&lt;/strong&gt;

 &lt;a href="http://namelindablog.info/cna-testing-nc/" rel="nofollow"&gt;Cna Testing Nc&lt;/a&gt; ...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>fihyjyw&#8230;</strong></p>
<p> <a href="http://namelindablog.info/cna-testing-nc/" rel="nofollow">Cna Testing Nc</a> &#8230;</p>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on Lesson #1 by Johan</title>
		<link>http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=85#comment-13</link>
		<dc:creator>Johan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Mar 2009 20:39:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=85#comment-13</guid>
		<description>Hello,

had the same problem with an OSRAM SFH4301 ...
actually the Kathode and Anode are reversed (flat side is the anode)

regards,

Johan</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello,</p>
<p>had the same problem with an OSRAM SFH4301 &#8230;<br />
actually the Kathode and Anode are reversed (flat side is the anode)</p>
<p>regards,</p>
<p>Johan</p>
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		<title>Comment on Multi-Touch Display using IR LED Ribbon by jim</title>
		<link>http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=103#comment-12</link>
		<dc:creator>jim</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 05 Dec 2008 05:20:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=103#comment-12</guid>
		<description>Hi Alex, we cut up a piece of processed 35mm film negative. We cut 2 small squares out of the dark black part (it's at the end of the reel, and does not have any photo exposed on it). We opened up the Xbox Live camera following a guide online, removed the IR filter, and replaced it with 2 pieces of the negative material (cut to the same size). It seemed to work pretty well!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Alex, we cut up a piece of processed 35mm film negative. We cut 2 small squares out of the dark black part (it&#8217;s at the end of the reel, and does not have any photo exposed on it). We opened up the Xbox Live camera following a guide online, removed the IR filter, and replaced it with 2 pieces of the negative material (cut to the same size). It seemed to work pretty well!</p>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on Multi-Touch Display using IR LED Ribbon by 09aslattery</title>
		<link>http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=103#comment-11</link>
		<dc:creator>09aslattery</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 05 Dec 2008 04:46:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=103#comment-11</guid>
		<description>Jim,

I'm curious what you used to make your visible light filter?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Jim,</p>
<p>I&#8217;m curious what you used to make your visible light filter?</p>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on Multi-Touch Display using IR LED Ribbon by jim</title>
		<link>http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=103#comment-10</link>
		<dc:creator>jim</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 13 Nov 2008 00:46:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=103#comment-10</guid>
		<description>Hi Alex, we started to setup the software, but had to put this on hold while we finish some other research projects. We may be able to resume this soon. I think if the camera and software are calibrated right, it should work fine. The blobs appear strong in all parts of the surface when viewed with an IR webcam. For the LED ribbons, we used an "L" shape instead of two parallel strips "&#124; &#124;" for simplicity in the wiring connections. There's definitely a lot of IR light bouncing around in there with that many LEDs :)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Alex, we started to setup the software, but had to put this on hold while we finish some other research projects. We may be able to resume this soon. I think if the camera and software are calibrated right, it should work fine. The blobs appear strong in all parts of the surface when viewed with an IR webcam. For the LED ribbons, we used an &#8220;L&#8221; shape instead of two parallel strips &#8220;| |&#8221; for simplicity in the wiring connections. There&#8217;s definitely a lot of IR light bouncing around in there with that many LEDs <img src='http://www.touchfactors.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /></p>
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		<title>Comment on Multi-Touch Display using IR LED Ribbon by 09aslattery</title>
		<link>http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=103#comment-9</link>
		<dc:creator>09aslattery</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 12 Nov 2008 21:53:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=103#comment-9</guid>
		<description>I noticed that you only cover the left side and the top with the IR ribbon.  This means as you move diagonal down the screen, the IR becomes less bright.  I imagine that since there are so many LEDs that this is not an issue, but without software testing no one will know. If two IR ribbons were placed, one at the top, one at the bottom, this would solve the problem, if presented.

I am planning on building a multi-touch board and am wondering how this setup performs with software.

Thanks, 
Alex</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I noticed that you only cover the left side and the top with the IR ribbon.  This means as you move diagonal down the screen, the IR becomes less bright.  I imagine that since there are so many LEDs that this is not an issue, but without software testing no one will know. If two IR ribbons were placed, one at the top, one at the bottom, this would solve the problem, if presented.</p>
<p>I am planning on building a multi-touch board and am wondering how this setup performs with software.</p>
<p>Thanks,<br />
Alex</p>
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		<title>Comment on Infrared LED Ribbon by syquest</title>
		<link>http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=68#comment-8</link>
		<dc:creator>syquest</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Sep 2008 10:59:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=68#comment-8</guid>
		<description>Thank you very much.

Just two more questions:

1. Where is the difference for a multitouch table between the 850nm and 940nm LEDs ?

2. What size is your table ?

Florian</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thank you very much.</p>
<p>Just two more questions:</p>
<p>1. Where is the difference for a multitouch table between the 850nm and 940nm LEDs ?</p>
<p>2. What size is your table ?</p>
<p>Florian</p>
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		<title>Comment on Infrared LED Ribbon by jim</title>
		<link>http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=68#comment-7</link>
		<dc:creator>jim</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 23 Sep 2008 22:42:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=68#comment-7</guid>
		<description>Hi Florian,

I don't know how much of an affect the viewing angle has on results. It may have a significant effect when you have a limited number of LEDs, and want to direct as much light into the acrylic as possible. Or perhaps if there's a poor "seal" between the LEDs and the acrylic, which would allow some light to escape.

But this ribbon has tons of LEDs, and the technique we used with the U-shaped channel doesn't allow for light leakage (at least, we haven't noticed any). The ribbon is a complete system that includes resistors. All you need to do is buy the appropriate type (850nm or 940nm) and length for your project, add a power supply (or use your own), and perhaps some connectors (if needed).

Hope that helps!

Jim</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Florian,</p>
<p>I don&#8217;t know how much of an affect the viewing angle has on results. It may have a significant effect when you have a limited number of LEDs, and want to direct as much light into the acrylic as possible. Or perhaps if there&#8217;s a poor &#8220;seal&#8221; between the LEDs and the acrylic, which would allow some light to escape.</p>
<p>But this ribbon has tons of LEDs, and the technique we used with the U-shaped channel doesn&#8217;t allow for light leakage (at least, we haven&#8217;t noticed any). The ribbon is a complete system that includes resistors. All you need to do is buy the appropriate type (850nm or 940nm) and length for your project, add a power supply (or use your own), and perhaps some connectors (if needed).</p>
<p>Hope that helps!</p>
<p>Jim</p>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on Infrared LED Ribbon by syquest</title>
		<link>http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=68#comment-6</link>
		<dc:creator>syquest</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 23 Sep 2008 09:18:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=68#comment-6</guid>
		<description>Hi !

I have a Question concerning the LED Ribbon. 

The LED's have a viewing angle of about +/- 120°
I heard that a narrow angle (like 40-60°) is better for a multitouch board.
Does this ribbon really produce precise/good results ?

Do you need resistors for the ribbon, 
too ? Or is everything ready to go?

Thx
Florian</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi !</p>
<p>I have a Question concerning the LED Ribbon. </p>
<p>The LED&#8217;s have a viewing angle of about +/- 120°<br />
I heard that a narrow angle (like 40-60°) is better for a multitouch board.<br />
Does this ribbon really produce precise/good results ?</p>
<p>Do you need resistors for the ribbon,<br />
too ? Or is everything ready to go?</p>
<p>Thx<br />
Florian</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Comment on Multi-Touch Display using IR LED Ribbon by jim</title>
		<link>http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=103#comment-5</link>
		<dc:creator>jim</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 13 Aug 2008 16:00:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.touchfactors.com/?p=103#comment-5</guid>
		<description>I’d say we’re pressing anywhere in the 2-4 range on a scale of 1-10, with 1 being a feather-light touch, and 10 being full pressure. The Rosco Grey is such a nice surface, it makes it very easy to slide your finger around. Also, the Rosco on top of the Sulky Solvy actually creates a kind of cushion that’s thicker and softer than pure acrylic. You can see this effect in the video clip (4:25 mark), where I notice that if you press hard and drag, the material gives a little, creating a ripple. But we don’t press that hard in normal use. We’ll have to see how it responds once we have the software working with the blobs we’re getting.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I’d say we’re pressing anywhere in the 2-4 range on a scale of 1-10, with 1 being a feather-light touch, and 10 being full pressure. The Rosco Grey is such a nice surface, it makes it very easy to slide your finger around. Also, the Rosco on top of the Sulky Solvy actually creates a kind of cushion that’s thicker and softer than pure acrylic. You can see this effect in the video clip (4:25 mark), where I notice that if you press hard and drag, the material gives a little, creating a ripple. But we don’t press that hard in normal use. We’ll have to see how it responds once we have the software working with the blobs we’re getting.</p>
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